Monday, 30 May 2011

Tiempo



I ask the man when he last worked. His feet curl with toughness against the pavement, and I judge my own bare feet as weak. Oaxacan heat yanks the sweat out of me. He tells me about his career of slaughtering bulls with his hands and a large knife, every day. Of drinking a small amount of their blood each time. He once received hell from his daughter when he taught her daughters - his granddaughters - this ritual.

"Tiempo no es muy bien amigo," he said out of nowhere; time is not a very good friend. Everyone in the proximity laughs along with the faded twinkle in his eye. He smiles, turning away.

His wife says he hadn't worked for 20 years. His second oldest grandaughter interjects to explain that their concept of time was not exceptionally accurate. Everyone nods. No one attempts to correct the statement. (If indeed it was false)

He asks what the boards were for, and I said surfing. Nods. I don't elaborate, but list a few places I had been. More nods. We talk random stuff at low volumes, the heat receding slightly with the sun on a nameless corner of a nameless town. Everything turns grey blue. I leave.

Now the only one awake. Coffee spilling with every poor attempt to anticipate when and where the topes, potholes and road detritus will appear. Girl Talk slams out at volume, working in tandem with the coffee to keep the eyes open until a 3 am trade-off for the wheel saves me at a shimmering PEMEX. I wake up in the back at 6 am, and watch Ixtapalapa's over and underpasses zoom by in the fluorescent lights and the roar of commuter traffic. A 9 am meeting looms.


Tiempo no es muy bien amigo
. I laugh lightly through the exhaustion.

Wednesday, 11 May 2011

A Tale of Two Taxis

Horror stories on Mex City taxi kidnappings do not come up short. I'd just read one in Daniel Hernandez's rad book, 'Down and Delirious in Mexico City.' More frightening, two personal accounts by friends of a narrow escape, and not such a lucky finish.

I got in the taxi at 8:30ish, after a final work call. En route to organize all things for travel. I had all my shit; cameras, compu, external hard drive, "applebottom jeans and the boots with the furs." Rain came up while flagging, so feeling stoked when dude stopped. It became clear quickly that he had no clue which way was up. Got the bad vibe feel. Dude started to talk all soft on his phone, head turned down. His ID placard thing didn't match the face. Mild panick. Told him to pull a Larry sporadically, which he did. Raining. Watching for tailers. Changed routes again two mins later. False security, but got to destino safe.

Next morning. Flagged a random cab with a partner in crime. Minimal chit chat, but arranged for a pick up to airport a few hours. A few minutes in we're talking about John Lee Hooker's influence on Eric Clapton and the Stones, Leadbelly's dissonantly caterwauling, hitchiking to see the Beatles live in Chicago in the 70's and how some Reggaeton ain't half bad, but mid-90's rap will never be replaced in the beats department. We got stuck in traffic. Dude explained his massive vinyl collection, and how he saves all his money driving cabs to buy tunes and to travel (been everywhere).

I messed up the departure terminal, and felt glad i did; Doors stories. When the ride finally ended, we, exchanged numbers; him saved as Carlos Santana, me, M(i)yles Davis. AND, we might go see Jethro Tull when they come to town next month.

He saw them in 1972, and described it as "impresionante."

Monday, 9 May 2011

March Against Violence



Frustration with Mexico's violence hit an apex last month. While thousands have been killed or disappeared in the war on drugs - including family members of powerful movers in Mexico - the death of the son of prominent poet, journalist and author Javier Sicilia lifted the anger up to new levels. He immediately spoke out with eloquent anger about the lasting bloodshed, and criticized the government.

Thousands listened, and mobilized to echo his thoughts.

Al Jazeera already has a decent account of the march, and I'm sure many others will soon.

I went by for a bit, and just couldn't help but thinking what the hell cartel bosses around the country were thinking watching this all play out on TV. I kept thinking about a friend's cynical perspective that they would see this as a joke. That the government - who most appealed to - can't fix the real problems.

Despite all the positive energy, and thousands of people, I couldn't shake that somber thought.